I pulled my digicam out final week to shoot a number of images, and I immediately remembered why I don’t like utilizing this factor: it takes AA batteries. My wi-fi mouse takes one AA. I’ve three Xbox controllers that each one take AAs. Over time, continually swapping useless batteries and watching gadgets chew via them has given me an precise “ick” for something that depends on AA cells.
However, because it seems, there’s much more occurring with AA batteries than I ever assumed. I’d ignored the textual content and markings on the packaging for years, however once I lastly paid consideration, all the things clicked — and all my battery-related issues principally solved themselves. Contemplate this my try at redemption, so nobody else repeats the identical errors I did.
Why did I ignore the battery markings for therefore lengthy?
Please let me clarify
Heavy Obligation. Tremendous Heavy Obligation. Additional Heavy Obligation. Professional Max Heavy Obligation. Titanium. Lengthy lasting. Lasts 10 years. “The final battery pack you ever purchase.” You’ve seen these. So have I. I dismissed all of them as empty advertising and marketing fluff and assumed none of it meant something. To be truthful, I used to be proper — these phrases don’t imply something. However their presence on the packaging was distracting sufficient that I ignored the textual content that does matter: the codes that let you know the chemistry and the way the battery will truly carry out.
I’d wish to consider I’m not the one one who fell for this. Most individuals in all probability deal with AA batteries as a single class (I say to myself). You seize no matter’s on the shelf and assume the one variations are “how lengthy it lasts” or “whether or not it’s rechargeable.” That assumption is improper. The markings on AA batteries matter — and when you perceive them, your complete class stops feeling random.
AA batteries aren’t all the identical
Not every bit of textual content is an commercial
Let me waste a number of extra seconds of your time, as a result of this story is precisely what made the entire thing click on for me. Should you discover it boring, scroll forward — the AA battery information desk is ready for you. However I am going to make the story value your time.
My digicam takes 4 AA batteries. I used to have a set of rechargeable ones for it, however I hadn’t used the digicam in so lengthy that I couldn’t discover them. So I purchased a pack of low cost non-rechargeable AAs. The digicam lasted for about ten photographs, then shut off immediately. No low-battery warning. Nothing.
Absolutely, regardless of these batteries each being low cost non-rechargable AAs, there is a distinction between LR6 and R6? What do they imply?
So I put in one other pack of batteries, and the digicam did not even activate. I might hear tiny relays clicking inside once I flipped the change, however nothing else. No LCD, no beep, nothing. What occurred? Did this man promote me discharged batteries? Is that this a rip-off? I grabbed my multimeter and it confirmed 1.5V. What’s occurring?
I swallowed the questions and as an alternative I went scorching all my cabinets and luggage in search of my rechargables. I discovered an entire lot of AA batteries, and to seek out out in the event that they’re rechargable or not, I needed to learn what’s on them. That is once I observed codes like LR6-BP4 or R6P AA UM-3. Absolutely, regardless of these batteries each being low cost non-rechargable AAs, there is a distinction between LR6 and R6? What do they imply?
What the AA battery codes truly imply
Translating LR6, R6, HR6, and buddies
Let’s decode one thing like R6P AA UM-3:
|
Code |
Which means |
|---|---|
|
R |
Spherical cell (cylindrical) |
|
6 |
Measurement code for AA |
|
P |
“Energy” or general-purpose zinc-carbon (a budget stuff) |
|
AA |
Retail title (simply repeats the scale) |
|
UM-3 |
Japanese JIS code for AA (once more, the scale) |
Most of that is redundant. However the chemistry code is the important thing. And as soon as you recognize the opposite codes too, you understand that “AA battery” will not be one product. There are a number of chemistries, and so they behave very in another way.
|
Code |
Chemistry |
Inner resistance |
Open voltage |
Excessive-current efficiency |
Rechargable |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
R6 |
Zinc-Carbon |
250–400 mΩ |
1.5V |
🟥Horrible |
❌ |
|
LR6 |
Alkaline |
80–150 mΩ |
1.5V |
🟧OK-ish |
❌ |
|
HR6 |
NiMH Rechargeable |
20–30 mΩ |
1.3V |
🟦Glorious |
✅ |
|
FR6 |
Lithium (Li-FeS₂) |
60–90 mΩ, very secure |
1.8V |
🟦Glorious |
❌ |
|
KR6 |
NiCd Rechargeable |
25–40 mΩ |
1.3V |
🟦Glorious |
✅ |
Don’t use R6 batteries in your digicam
You are throwing away cash
There you could have it — AA batteries, demystified. However in the event you actually wish to put this matter to mattress (like I did), we have to discuss why you shouldn’t use R6 or LR6 batteries in a digicam or every other high-current system. Earlier than I understood any of this, I assumed the one distinction was capability. Low cost batteries die quicker, costly ones last more. Identical voltage, so the digicam ought to work both means. I used to be improper.
Excessive-drain gadgets like cameras, flashes, and recreation controllers, pull a number of present. Batteries have inner resistance, and while you pull excessive present, voltage drops. That is precisely what my digicam was doing. It could activate with alkaline LR6 cells, however the second I used autofocus or flash, it will immediately shut off. And the batteries weren’t “useless” — they nonetheless labored tremendous in a mouse. The load simply pulled the voltage under the digicam’s minimal threshold.
Right here’s an instance at 5 amps (flash recharge spike):
|
Code |
Open voltage |
Inner resistance |
Load voltage @ 5A |
Load state |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
R6 |
1.5V |
~300 mΩ |
1.50 – (5×0.30) = 0.00 V |
🟥Full collapse |
|
LR6 |
1.5V |
~120 mΩ |
1.50 – (5×0.12) = 0.90 V |
🟧Shutdown territory |
|
KR6 |
1.3V |
~35 mΩ |
1.30 – (5×0.035)= 1.12 V |
🟨Steady-ish |
|
HR6 |
1.3V |
~25 mΩ |
1.30 – (5×0.025)= 1.17 V |
🟩Steady |
|
FR6 |
1.8V |
~80 mΩ |
1.80 – (5×0.08) = 1.40 V |
🟦Very secure |
So sure, you save nothing by shopping for cheaper batteries. The system merely received’t perform correctly. This is the reason cameras love NiMH (HR6) and lithium (FR6). It is also why R6 zinc-carbon shouldn’t be used for something extra demanding than a wall clock.
All of those requirements and codes additionally aply for AAA batteries.
inform in the event you’ve bought the proper batteries
Ignore “Heavy Obligation” and browse the tiny code as an alternative
The following time you want AA batteries, take into account the system you wish to use it for. The diploma of responsibility that is written on the batteries (like Heavy responsibility) is unfair. Simply have a look at the codes and numbers.
|
Code |
Use case |
|---|---|
|
R6 |
Simply keep away from them.They’re barely cheaper than LR6 and carry out terribly. |
|
LR6 |
For remotes, clocks, and low-drain gadgets. |
|
HR6 |
For something high-drain (cameras, controllers, flashes, toys). |
|
FR6 |
For the very best non-rechargeable efficiency. |
|
KR6 |
Provided that you personal historic gear. |
Some manufacturers embrace icons to trace at supposed use. A clock often means zinc-carbon (R6). A flashlight means alkaline (LR6). A digicam icon might imply lithium (FR6). These icons aren’t standardized, however they might help you notice the plain rubbish.
For cameras or something that pulls a number of present, NiMH and FR6 (lithium) AAs are the proper alternative. NiMH has the bonus of being rechargeable, which makes it the very best long-term deal. The one catch is you’ll want a correct charger in the event you don’t have already got one. I take advantage of a Camelion 4-slot charger and a Sony 2-slot charger — each deal with AA and AAA with out points.
- Suitable Batteries
-
AA, AAA
- Model
-
Sony
- Battery capability
-
1000 mAh
- Battery Cell Kind
-
NiMH
If you are going to use a charger, learn the textual content in your charger. Except it’s a correct good charger (with temperature sensing, delta-V detection, or protected trickle at full), charging NiMH cells is susceptible to the identical phone charging myths we’ve lastly outgrown with telephones. Leaving them in a single day in a dumb charger will overheat them, degrade them, and even soften the casing.
FR6 lithium batteries are glorious for cameras. They provide excessive capability and really low inner resistance, which implies they will deal with heavy bursts of present with out choking. They’re not rechargeable, however a single pack will final a very long time in most cameras.
- Battery Kind(s)
-
Lithium
- Model
-
Energizer
- Capability
-
3000 mAh
A fast warning when looking for lithium AAs: all the time examine the voltage. Most lithium cells available on the market are 3.7V, not 1.5V. These 3.7V cells use a very totally different chemistry, and placing them in your digicam is a spectacularly unhealthy thought. You need 1.5V lithium primaries just like the Energizer Final Lithium collection. And keep in mind: if it’s rechargeable, it’s the improper lithium chemistry for AA gadgets. Solely the non-rechargeable lithium AAs are protected replacements.
What about USB-rechargeable AA batteries?
They’re cute, however not sensible
On some cabinets, you’ll see USB-C rechargeable AAs that publicize 1.5V lithium 2200mAh. You would possibly assume: wait, aren’t lithium AAs purported to be 1.8V and never rechargeable? Right. And these usually are not truly 1.5V lithium cells.
Inside these USB-rechargable AAs, there is a tiny 3.7 Li-ion cell, plus a buck converter to manage output to 1.5V, plus a charging circuit. So that you’re principally shopping for a small battery + numerous circuitry. The battery capacity (mAh) is rarely as excessive as marketed (as a result of 2200mAh at 1.5V ≠ 2200mAh at 3.7V), and also you’re paying for complexity, not efficiency. It is a cute thought, however a nasty deal.
I went with Panasonic Eneloop HR6 (NiMH) cells in the long run, and so they’ve been rock-solid — each photograph you see right here was taken on my digicam with out it collapsing mid-shot.
I modified my thoughts about AA batteries
I wasted so many R6 AAs on my digicam that I don’t even wish to give it some thought. However these days are over. I’m absolutely on board with AA-powered gadgets once more.
I was aggravated that Microsoft would not simply stick a a proprietary Li-Po battery in its controllers, like Sony does. However now, no extra. When a proprietary battery in a tool dies, you’re caught. When a tool makes use of AAs, you simply swap cells and transfer on. I proudly confess that AA batteries weren’t the issue. I used to be.
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